How to Replace Frigidaire Fridge Ice Maker Module

Keeping a Frigidaire ice-maker running well takes a few brand-specific steps. The module mounts to the freezer wall with a single screw and connects through a wire harness plug and a water supply tube, and unlike some brands that need heavy disassembly, Frigidaire (and Electrolux) ice makers snap in and out. The most common reason to replace one is a mechanical failure in the harvest-cycle motor or the ejector arms that dump ice into the bin — when the motor fails, the module freezes a batch but cannot eject it and eventually builds a solid block. Other failures include the thermistor that signals the mold is cold enough to harvest, and the fill valve solenoid (a separate component, not part of the module).

Tools, Parts, and Safety First#

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, flat-blade screwdriver (for prying clips), towel, small cup
• Parts needed: Frigidaire ice maker assembly (varies by model common part: 243297606 or 241798224 depending on model)
• Time required: 15-25 minutes
• Difficulty: Beginner
• Safety warning: No electrical hazard — the ice maker operates on low voltage (12V DC) supplied through the wire harness. Turn the ice maker off using the power switch on the module or lift the bail arm to the OFF position before beginning. Place a towel below the work area to catch any water from the supply line.

Step-by-Step Instructions#

Step 1 — Turn off the ice maker and identify the model#

Find the ice maker in the freezer (usually the upper-left wall) and turn it off by flipping the module switch or raising the metal bail arm to the up/off position. Lift the ice bin out below it for clear access. Check your refrigerator model number on the rating plate inside the fresh food section (upper-right wall or ceiling): Frigidaire uses different modules by series — standard (basic models), modular crescent-type (most Gallery models), and twist-tray (some newer Gallery/Professional) — but the procedure is nearly identical for all.

Step 2 — Remove the ice maker cover (if fitted)#

Gallery and Professional models often have a decorative cover over the assembly, held by 1-2 Phillips screws or plastic tabs. Remove the screws or press the tabs and pull the cover forward and down. Basic models usually leave the ice maker exposed.

Step 3 — Disconnect the wire harness#

Find the connector where the ice maker plugs into the freezer-wall wiring — a rectangular multi-pin connector, usually 3-6 pins. Press the locking tab and pull straight apart, never by the wires. On some models the connector is reachable from the front; on others you slide the module slightly forward to reach it behind or beside the unit.

Step 4 — Disconnect the water supply tube#

The fill tube enters the mold from above or from the rear wall, with a compression fitting or slip-on connection at the ice maker end. For a compression fitting, hold the fitting body and unscrew the nut counterclockwise; for slip-on, squeeze the retaining clip and pull the tube out of the port. Keep your towel ready for the small amount of residual water. If your model integrates the fill tube into the freezer wall rather than the module, skip this step.

Step 5 — Remove the mounting screw#

The module is held to the freezer wall by a single Phillips or hex-head screw at the rear bracket. Support the ice maker with one hand and remove the screw, then slide the module forward and lift it off the support rails or mounting pegs.

Step 6 — Install the new ice maker#

Set the new module on the rails or pegs — it has keyhole slots or hook tabs that engage the wall features — and slide it in until it sits flush. Install the mounting screw snug (do not overtorque; many models thread into plastic). Reconnect the fill tube (push in until the clip clicks, or hand-tighten the compression nut) and the wire harness until the locking tab engages.

Step 7 — Test the new ice maker#

Lower the bail arm to ON or flip the module switch on, reinstall the ice bin, close the freezer, and wait 2-3 hours for the first cycle — the freezer must reach about 15F or below before the module starts a fill/freeze cycle. After 3 hours, check the bin for the first batch (typically 7-8 crescent cubes per harvest on standard Frigidaire models). No ice after 4 hours means checking that the water supply valve at the rear of the refrigerator is open. Give the module a full overnight before you judge it, though — a freezer that was opened repeatedly during the swap can take hours to pull back down to harvest temperature, and a module that looks dead the first evening is often just waiting on the cabinet to recover its cold.

Frigidaire Ice Maker Troubleshooting Before Replacement#

Before buying a module, confirm the ice maker itself actually failed:

PureSource Water Filter and Ice Production#

Frigidaire PureSource filters, in the upper right of the fresh food compartment on most models, directly affect ice production: a clogged filter cuts water pressure to the fill valve and produces small or hollow cubes. Replace the PureSource filter every 6 months or when the indicator light activates, and if ice production drops suddenly, bypass the filter temporarily to see whether it is the restriction.

Common Frigidaire Ice Maker Parts#

When Should You Call a Professional?#

EasyBear technicians serving Sacramento and the Bay Area carry Frigidaire-specific diagnostic tools and replacement parts on every service call. Call one if the water inlet valve needs replacing (it means accessing the rear of the fridge and working with pressurized supply plumbing), if the ice maker wiring harness inside the freezer wall is damaged (interior panel removal), if you suspect the main control board is not sending the harvest signal (electronic diagnosis), or if the fill tube keeps freezing despite a new fill-tube heater (possibly a sealed-system issue driving freezer temperatures too low).

Need Professional Help?#

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Need help with this repair? Schedule a free diagnostic — same-day Frigidaire refrigerator service across the Bay Area.