How to Repair a GE Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay

If your GE refrigerator makes a clicking sound every 2-5 minutes but the compressor will not run, the start relay has almost certainly failed. This is one of the most common and easiest GE refrigerator repairs — a $15-$25 part that takes under 20 minutes to replace. The start relay provides the initial surge of power the compressor motor needs to begin running. When it fails, the compressor attempts to start, the overload protector detects excess current, and shuts it down — creating the characteristic click-buzz-click pattern.

GE refrigerators use either a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) relay or a traditional relay/overload combination. On most models made after 2010, it is a combined start relay and overload protector in a single unit that plugs directly onto the compressor terminals at the rear bottom of the refrigerator. This guide covers both styles.

Before You Start

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4" hex driver, multimeter, needle-nose pliers, flashlight
• Parts needed: Compressor start relay (~$15-$25) — verify exact part by model; overload protector if combined unit
• Time required: 20 minutes
• Difficulty: Beginner
• Safety warning: Unplug the refrigerator and wait 5 minutes. The start relay is on the compressor at the rear bottom — pull unit away from wall.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Confirm the Symptom

Listen to your GE refrigerator. The classic failed start relay symptom is: a humming or buzzing sound for 2-5 seconds, then a click (overload protector tripping), then silence for 2-5 minutes, then the cycle repeats. The refrigerator will gradually warm up because the compressor never actually runs. If you hear nothing at all (complete silence), the issue may be the control board or thermostat instead.

Step 2: Access the Compressor Compartment

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull it away from the wall to access the rear. Remove the rear lower access panel — typically secured with 2-4 Phillips screws or 1/4" hex fasteners. You will see the compressor (black dome-shaped component), condenser fan, and coils. The start relay is plugged onto the side of the compressor — it is a small device about the size of a deck of cards, usually white or gray plastic.

Step 3: Remove the Start Relay

The start relay plugs directly onto 2 or 3 terminal pins on the compressor body. Pull it straight off — it may require firm but even pressure. On some GE models, there is a retaining clip or wire that holds it in place. Remove this clip first. Note the orientation — there is usually only one way it can plug on correctly because the pins are different sizes or spacing.

Step 4: Test the Start Relay

Shake the removed start relay. If you hear a rattle inside, it has mechanically failed — the internal contacts have broken apart. This is the quick test that confirms failure without a multimeter. For a more thorough test with a multimeter: check resistance between the two relay terminals (not the overload). A good PTC relay shows low resistance (3-12 ohms) at room temperature and increases with heat. Open circuit (infinite resistance) at room temperature confirms failure.

Step 5: Install the New Start Relay

Push the new start relay onto the compressor terminal pins. It should seat firmly with slight resistance. Make sure it is fully seated — a partially connected relay will fail immediately. Reinstall the retaining clip or wire if your model has one. Route any wires clear of the condenser fan blade. Verify the overload protector (the round disc either separate or built into the relay housing) is properly positioned.

Step 6: Test the Repair

Reinstall the rear access panel. Push the refrigerator back into position. Plug in and listen. You should hear the compressor start (a low hum) within seconds. It should continue running smoothly without clicking or cycling off. If the compressor starts and runs, the repair is successful. Allow 24 hours for the refrigerator to reach proper temperature. Activate Turbo Cool and Turbo Freeze (press and hold 3 seconds each) to speed recovery.

Step 7: Monitor for 48 Hours

After a successful start, monitor the refrigerator for 48 hours. The compressor should cycle on and off normally (running for 30-60 minutes, off for 30-60 minutes depending on ambient temperature and door openings). If the clicking returns within 48 hours despite a new relay, the compressor motor itself may be failing — an internal short or mechanical seizure that the relay cannot overcome.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

• If the new relay also clicks off within seconds, the compressor windings may be shorted. Test resistance between compressor pins: Start-to-Run should be 3-8 ohms, Start-to-Common 3-8 ohms, Run-to-Common 5-15 ohms. Far outside these ranges indicates compressor failure
• If you cannot find the correct replacement relay, GE part number varies by model. Check the service sheet (often taped inside the compressor compartment or behind the kick plate) for the exact relay number
• A burnt smell from the relay area indicates it was arcing internally — check the compressor terminals for burn marks or corrosion. Clean with fine sandpaper before installing the new relay
• On GE Profile models, the relay may be integrated into a VCC (Variable Capacity Compressor) controller board — these are more expensive ($50-$100) and not interchangeable with standard relays

When to Call a Professional

Contact a certified technician if:

• A new start relay does not resolve the clicking — the compressor motor has likely failed. Compressor replacement costs $400-$800 and may not be economical on units over 8 years old
• You measure abnormal resistance on the compressor terminals (indicating winding failure)
• The compressor starts but makes loud knocking or grinding sounds — internal mechanical damage
• Your model uses an inverter compressor (some newer GE Profile models) with an electronic controller board rather than a simple relay
• The refrigerator is within GE's 5-year sealed system warranty — have GE service handle it at no cost

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

Need Professional Help?

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FAQ

Q: How do I know if it is the start relay or the compressor that failed? A: The shake test is definitive for the relay — if it rattles, it is broken. If the relay passes the shake test and resistance test but the compressor still clicks, the compressor motor is failing. A new relay costs $15-$25, so it is worth trying even if you are not 100% certain.

Q: Can I use a hard-start kit instead of replacing the relay? A: A hard-start kit (capacitor-based) can sometimes get a failing compressor running temporarily, but it masks the symptom. If the relay itself is the problem (rattling, open circuit), a simple relay replacement is the correct fix. Hard-start kits are appropriate only for compressors that are slightly weak but not fully failed.

Q: My GE refrigerator is 12 years old and the compressor failed. Should I repair or replace? A: If the compressor itself has failed (not just the relay), repair costs $400-$800 for compressor replacement. Most technicians recommend replacing a refrigerator over 10 years old when facing compressor failure — the cost approaches 50% of a new unit and other components are aging too.

Q: Where can I find the exact part number for my GE refrigerator start relay? A: Check the service sheet taped inside the compressor compartment or behind the front kick plate. Alternatively, search the GE parts website using your model number (found on a sticker inside the refrigerator, usually upper left wall).

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