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KitchenAid dishwasher showing F1E2? The water-temperature sensor has shorted, so the heat phase is skipped. Causes, DIY checks, and repair cost $75–$200.

KitchenAid dishwasher F2E2 points to a user-interface board fault — stuck keys or moisture. Causes, safe DIY checks, and the repair-vs-replace call.

KitchenAid dishwasher F3E1 is an OWI (optical water indicator) fault — usually a lens fogged by hard-water scale. Cleaning steps and repair cost $100–$225.

KitchenAid dishwasher F5E1 is a door-switch fault — the board never sees the door confirmed shut. Causes, latch checks, and whether to repair.

KitchenAid dishwasher F5E2 means the door will not close and latch. Rack, latch, and spring checks — plus the quick repair-vs-replace verdict.

KitchenAid dishwasher F6E4 is a water flow-meter error — usually a turbine stuck with hard-water scale. Causes, checks, and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid dishwasher F7E1 is a wash-motor fault — often a jammed impeller or bad capacitor. Diagnosis, DIY sump check, and repair-vs-replace.

KitchenAid dishwasher F8E1 means a slow water fill — often a half-closed supply valve or a scaled inlet screen. Checks and the repair verdict.

Cleaning the filter is the first move and often the last. What decides everything after it is the noise during the drain phase: a hum with no water and complete silence are two different parts and two very different bills.

KitchenAid dishwasher F9E1 means drain time exceeded — often a disposal knockout plug left in. Installation checks and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F1E0 is an EEPROM read/write failure on the control board — often power-surge damage. Why it needs a board, and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F2E0 is a shorted touchpad — a stuck membrane key the board reads as a phantom press, often after self-clean. Fixes and cost $150–$350.

KitchenAid oven F3E0 is an open oven temperature sensor — the oven will not heat. Causes, the safe reset, and the repair-vs-replace verdict.

KitchenAid oven F3E2 is a shorted temperature sensor (RTD) sending a false high reading, so the oven underheats. DIY test, when to call a pro, cost $50–$175.

KitchenAid oven F5E1 means the self-clean door lock will not lock — usually stripped latch-motor gears from heat. Checks and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F5E2 means the self-clean door lock will not unlock after cleaning. The safe cooling wait, when the latch assembly is due, cost $125–$275.

KitchenAid gas oven F6E0 means the igniter is not opening the gas valve — usually a weak igniter. Safe checks, the gas caution, and repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F9E0 is a door-lock motor fault — the latch stalled without reaching either position. Cooling wait, what to check, repair cost $125–$275.

KitchenAid refrigerator C1 is an open freezer sensor — the compressor runs nonstop and frost builds. Causes, safe checks, and repair verdict.

KitchenAid refrigerator C2 is an open fresh-food thermistor — the fridge over-cools and produce freezes. How it differs from C1, the fix, and cost $75–$175.

KitchenAid refrigerator CF means a communication failure between the main and display boards — often a flexing door harness. Checks and repair verdict.

KitchenAid refrigerator Door Ajar alarm means the door is not sealing — item blocking, worn gasket, or hinge sag. Checks and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid refrigerator PC1 is a compressor-circuit fault — often a failed start relay. What it means, why it needs a pro, and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid refrigerator PO just means a power outage was detected — press any button to clear it. When a recurring PO needs a small repair, up to $110.

KitchenAid washer F0E2 is an excess-suds error on the KFWB front-loader — usually too much detergent. The free fix, and when a part is due, up to $130.

KitchenAid washer F5E2 is a door-lock fault on the KFWB front-loader — a spent wax-motor lock, often corroded by dispenser moisture. Checks and cost $125–$275.

KitchenAid washer F6E2 is a communication fault between the UI and main boards — usually connectors walked loose by spin vibration. Fixes and cost $150–$375.

KitchenAid washer F7E1 is a motor speed-sensing error — usually the rotor position sensor, not the motor. Why to test the sensor first, cost $200–$425.

KitchenAid washer F8E1 is a water-supply fill fault — usually closed valves or scaled inlet screens. Owner checks first, then the valve, cost $75–$225.

KitchenAid washer F9E1 means the drain took too long — usually a clogged pump trap. The owner clean-out first, when the pump is due, cost $100–$250.
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