Kenmore Refrigerator Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Kenmore has been a trusted refrigerator brand for decades, found in millions of American kitchens. While Kenmore doesn't manufacture its own appliances (they're built by companies like Whirlpool, LG, and Frigidaire), the Kenmore brand applies its own model numbering and occasionally unique features. The first three digits of your Kenmore model number reveal the manufacturer: 106 = Whirlpool, 795 = LG, 253 = Frigidaire. This guide covers the most common problems across all Kenmore refrigerator types and their solutions.

Understanding Your Kenmore Refrigerator

Identifying your manufacturer:

• 106.xxxx — Made by Whirlpool. Parts cross-reference with Whirlpool/KitchenAid.
• 795.xxxx — Made by LG. Parts cross-reference with LG.
• 253.xxxx — Made by Frigidaire/Electrolux. Parts cross-reference with Frigidaire.
• 596.xxxx — Made by Samsung (less common). Parts cross-reference with Samsung.

Knowing the manufacturer helps you find replacement parts and apply model-specific troubleshooting techniques.

Problem 1: Refrigerator Not Cooling

This is the most critical and common Kenmore refrigerator problem. The causes vary slightly by manufacturer but follow a general pattern.

Start with these quick checks:

1. Verify the temperature setting hasn't been accidentally changed. Set to 37°F (fridge) and 0°F (freezer).
2. Check that the refrigerator is plugged in firmly and the outlet has power.
3. Listen for the compressor — a low hum from the rear of the unit.
4. Feel the condenser coils for heat — they should be warm when the compressor runs.

Common causes:

Dirty Condenser Coils

The #1 cause of gradual cooling loss. The condenser coils (back or bottom of unit) must dissipate heat. Clean them every 6–12 months with a coil brush and vacuum.

Location by manufacturer:

• Whirlpool-made (106.): Bottom, behind the base grille
• LG-made (795.): Back of the unit or bottom
• Frigidaire-made (253.): Back of the unit

Evaporator Fan Failure

If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, the evaporator fan (which circulates cold air from the freezer to the fridge) has likely failed.

Part numbers by manufacturer:

• Whirlpool-made: W10189703 or WPW10189703
• LG-made: 4681JB1029A or similar LG part
• Frigidaire-made: 242077702 or similar Frigidaire part

Cost: $20–$60 for the motor. Professional repair: $150–$250.

Defrost System Failure

Ice on the evaporator coils blocks airflow. The defrost heater, thermostat, or timer/control board has failed.

Diagnosis: If the refrigerator cycles between working well and not cooling (on a weekly or bi-weekly pattern), the defrost system is the likely cause.

Compressor / Start Relay

A clicking sound every few minutes from the back indicates the compressor is trying to start but failing. The start relay is the usual culprit.

Cost: Start relay $15–$30. Compressor: $400–$800 (may not be cost-effective on units over 10 years old).

Problem 2: Ice Maker Not Making Ice

Kenmore ice maker problems are extremely common and the specific troubleshooting depends on the manufacturer:

For Whirlpool-made Kenmore (106.):

• Check the ice maker power switch/arm (wire bail arm must be down = ON).
• Test the water inlet valve (W10219716) — should show 120V when the ice maker calls for water.
• Verify the water supply line isn't frozen (set freezer to 0°F, not colder).
• Replace the ice maker module (W10882923) if the test button doesn't trigger a harvest cycle.

For LG-made Kenmore (795.):

• LG-made Kenmore models can suffer from the same ice maker/defrost design issues as LG-branded units.
• Check for ice buildup around the ice maker and evaporator area.
• Test the ice maker assembly (AEQ73110210) by pressing and holding the test button for 3 seconds.

For Frigidaire-made Kenmore (253.):

• Check the ice maker on/off switch.
• Verify the water inlet valve (242252702) is functioning.
• Inspect the water filter — a clogged filter restricts flow to the ice maker.

Universal ice maker troubleshooting:

1. Confirm the water supply valve (wall valve) is fully open.
2. Check the water filter — replace if it's been more than 6 months.
3. Verify the freezer temperature is 0°F to -5°F. Warmer temperatures prevent proper ice formation.
4. Inspect the water inlet valve for leaks or failure.
5. Press the ice maker's test button and observe the harvest cycle.

Problem 3: Refrigerator Runs Constantly

A refrigerator that never cycles off is overworking, running up your electricity bill, and may eventually fail from the strain.

Common causes:

• Dirty condenser coils — The compressor can't dissipate heat efficiently.
• Door gasket leak — Warm air constantly enters, so the fridge never reaches the target temperature.
• Temperature set too cold — Verify settings. Ultra-cold settings keep the compressor running.
• Defrost system failure — Ice buildup on the evaporator forces the compressor to run constantly to maintain barely adequate temperatures.
• Low refrigerant — A slow leak gradually reduces cooling capacity, making the compressor run more.
• Condenser fan failure — Without the fan, the compressor overheats and the system loses efficiency.

Fix approach: Start with the simplest causes — clean the coils, check the door seals, verify temperature settings. If these don't resolve the issue, move to component testing.

Problem 4: Water Leaking on the Floor

Water on the floor around or under the refrigerator is alarming but usually has a straightforward cause.

Common causes:

1. Clogged defrost drain — During automatic defrost, melted water should drain through a tube to a drip pan. If the drain is clogged with ice or debris, water backs up and leaks inside the fridge or onto the floor.

   • Fix: Locate the drain opening inside the freezer (usually at the bottom-rear). Clear it with warm water or a turkey baster. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain tube.

2. Cracked or overflowing drip pan — The drip pan under the refrigerator collects defrost water, which normally evaporates. If the pan is cracked or the unit is defrosting excessively, water overflows.

   • Fix: Pull out the drip pan (usually accessible from the front, behind the base grille) and inspect for cracks. Replace if damaged.

3. Water supply line leak — If your refrigerator has an ice maker or water dispenser, the supply line can leak at connections.

   • Fix: Pull the refrigerator out and inspect all water line connections. Tighten compression fittings or replace the supply line if damaged.

4. Condensation — In humid environments, moisture can form on the outside of the refrigerator or around the door frames.

   • Fix: This is usually normal in humid conditions. If excessive, check that the anti-condensation heater (a low-wattage heater in the door frame) is working.

Problem 5: Refrigerator Making Unusual Noises

Some noise is normal, but new or loud sounds indicate a developing problem.

Sound guide:

• Clicking (every few minutes): Start relay trying and failing to start the compressor. Replace the start relay.
• Buzzing/humming (constant): Normal compressor operation if quiet. Loud buzzing may indicate a failing compressor or a loose drain pan vibrating against the floor.
• Grinding/squealing: Fan motor bearings wearing out (evaporator or condenser fan). Replace the fan motor before it seizes.
• Popping/cracking: Normal expansion and contraction of plastic parts with temperature changes. Ice dropping in the ice maker also makes this sound.
• Gurgling/hissing: Normal sound of refrigerant flowing through the system. Usually heard after the compressor shuts off.
• Rattling: Loose drain pan, condenser coils vibrating, or items on top of the refrigerator.
• Knocking: Compressor mounts may be worn, causing the compressor to vibrate against the frame. This can also indicate a failing compressor.

Problem 6: Freezer Works but Fridge Is Warm

This specific symptom narrows the diagnosis significantly:

1. Evaporator fan failure (most common) — The fan that pushes cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section has stopped. Listen for the fan when the door is closed.
2. Damper stuck closed — The air damper between compartments is stuck, blocking cold air flow.
3. Defrost issue — Ice on the evaporator may be blocking the air vent to the fresh food section.
4. Thermistor failure — If the fresh food thermistor reads incorrectly, the control board won't call for additional cooling.

Problem 7: Refrigerator Freezing Food

When the fresh food section drops below 32°F, your lettuce, milk, and produce freeze.

Common causes:

1. Temperature set too cold — Verify the setting. Aim for 37°F.
2. Damper stuck open — The damper is allowing too much freezer air into the fridge.
3. Faulty thermistor — The temperature sensor reads warmer than actual, causing the system to overcool.
4. Thermostat malfunction — The control thermostat is stuck in the "always on" position.
5. Food placement — Items placed directly against the rear wall or near cold air vents freeze first. Rearrange to leave space.

Problem 8: Water Dispenser Not Working

For Kenmore refrigerators with water dispensers:

1. Frozen water line — The most common cause. The water tube inside the door freezes because the freezer temperature is set too low. Set freezer to 0°F (not -5°F or colder). Thaw the line with a hair dryer.
2. Clogged water filter — Replace the filter every 6 months. A clogged filter reduces flow to a trickle.
3. Faulty water inlet valve — The valve that opens when you press the dispenser lever may have failed. Test for 120V at the valve terminals during dispensing.
4. Dispenser switch/actuator — The mechanical switch behind the dispenser lever can wear out. Test for continuity when pressed.

Kenmore Refrigerator Diagnostic Modes

For Whirlpool-made (106.):

1. Open one door and press the door switch 3 times within 10 seconds.
2. The control enters diagnostic mode, displaying stored error codes.

For LG-made (795.):

1. Press and hold the Refrigerator and Freezer buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds.
2. Or use the LG ThinQ app (if the model has Wi-Fi) for smart diagnosis.

For Frigidaire-made (253.):

1. Press and hold the Up Arrow and Down Arrow temperature buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds.
2. The display enters diagnostic mode.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long do Kenmore refrigerators last? A: Kenmore refrigerators typically last 13–18 years, depending on the manufacturer and model type. Whirlpool-made models (106.) tend toward the longer end, while LG-made models with more electronic features (795.) tend to last 10–15 years. Regular maintenance (coil cleaning, gasket care, filter changes) significantly impacts lifespan.

Q: Where do I find Kenmore refrigerator parts? A: Since Kenmore appliances are manufactured by other companies, parts are available through both the Kenmore/Sears parts system (searspartsdirect.com) and the original manufacturer's parts suppliers. Cross-reference your Kenmore model number with the manufacturer's equivalent for the broadest parts availability and best pricing.

Q: Is it worth repairing a 15-year-old Kenmore refrigerator? A: At 15 years, only minor repairs (thermostat, fan motor, door gasket) at $100–$250 are cost-effective. Major repairs like compressor ($500+) or sealed system work ($600+) generally aren't worth it, as the unit is near the end of its expected lifespan and other components will likely fail soon.

Q: Why does my Kenmore refrigerator make a clicking sound? A: A clicking sound every 2–5 minutes usually indicates the compressor is trying to start but the start relay has failed. The compressor attempts to start, the overload protector trips (click), waits a few minutes, and tries again. Replace the start relay — it's a $15–$30 part that usually takes 15 minutes to replace.

Q: How do I reset my Kenmore refrigerator? A: Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then plug it back in. This clears temporary control board glitches. For Kenmore Elite models with a display, you may also need to press and hold specific button combinations after power is restored (refer to your model's manual for the exact reset sequence).

When to Call a Professional

Professional repair is recommended for:

• Sealed system problems — Refrigerant leaks, compressor failure, and evaporator/condenser repairs require EPA certification and specialized tools.
• Multiple simultaneous failures — When more than one system fails at once, a control board issue or wiring problem is likely, requiring systematic electrical diagnosis.
• Kenmore Elite electronic models — These have complex control systems with multiple boards that require specific diagnostic procedures.
• Persistent ice buildup — If manual defrosting and component replacement don't stop ice from recurring, there may be an airflow design issue or a hidden defrost system fault.
• Unusual smells — A chemical or burning smell could indicate an electrical short or a refrigerant leak, both of which need professional attention.

A qualified technician can cross-reference your Kenmore model with the actual manufacturer's service procedures, ensuring the correct diagnosis regardless of who made your specific unit.

Having trouble with your Kenmore refrigerator? EasyBear's technicians are experienced with all Kenmore refrigerator models, regardless of the original manufacturer. We offer a free diagnostic visit — our tech will identify the exact problem, explain your repair options with transparent pricing, and fix it on the spot in most cases. Every repair includes our 90-day parts and labor warranty. Book your free Kenmore refrigerator diagnosis today.