Error Codes repair guides and troubleshooting tips.
462 articles

Hotpoint oven F0 is a stuck-key fault on the range control — often moisture behind the keypanel. Cut power if it self-heats. DIY drying and a $175–$375 range.

Hotpoint oven F2 means the oven ran past its temperature ceiling — a fire-safety code. Cut power and stop using it. DIY steps and a $100–$350 range.

Hotpoint oven F3 means the oven RTD sensor read open — often just a backed-off rear plug. DIY reseat, safe checks, and a $50–$150 professional range.

Hotpoint oven F7 means one function pad is reading held — usually a single delaminating pad on the touch overlay. DIY checks and a $100–$275 range.

Hotpoint oven F8 is a clock/timer (ERC) failure, often after a power surge. Causes and a $175–$350 control board repair.

Hotpoint refrigerator CC is a condenser fan fault — often just dust on the blade. Causes and a $100–$225 professional repair range.

Hotpoint refrigerator CI is an ice maker fault — often low water pressure, not the module. Causes and a $125–$300 professional repair.

Hotpoint refrigerator CO means the boards stopped exchanging data — often a cracked conductor in the top-hinge harness. DIY reset and a $175–$400 range.

Hotpoint refrigerator dH means the defrost cycle is not clearing frost — usually a burned-open heater. DIY signs, safe thawing, and a $125–$275 range.

Hotpoint refrigerator FF means the evaporator fan stalled — often a blade frozen in ice pointing at a defrost fault. DIY signs and a $100–$250 range.

Hotpoint washer dE means the door was not confirmed latched — often a worn lock gear on the GE-built front-loader. DIY checks and a $100–$225 range.

Hotpoint washer E1 means a water level pressure switch error. Causes, safe DIY checks, and a $75–$200 repair cost from a Bay Area technician.

Hotpoint washer E2 is a drain timeout — usually a clogged drain filter. Clean-it-yourself steps plus a $100–$225 professional repair range.

Hotpoint washer E3 means spin speed was not reached — usually an unbalanced load. Easy owner fixes and a repair cost of up to $250.

Hotpoint washer E4 is an overfill safety code — water level too high. Turn off the supply first. Causes and a $125–$275 professional repair.

Hotpoint washer tE means the wash-water temperature is out of range — often just a shut hot tap, not the sensor. DIY checks and a $75–$175 range.

Hotpoint washer UE means spin balance was not achieved — usually an uneven load. A free rearrange fixes most cases. DIY steps and an up-to-$200 range.

KitchenAid dishwasher showing F1E1? It means an open water-temperature sensor. What causes it, the DIY checks, and whether it is worth fixing.

KitchenAid dishwasher showing F1E2? The water-temperature sensor has shorted, so the heat phase is skipped. Causes, DIY checks, and repair cost $75–$200.

KitchenAid dishwasher F2E2 points to a user-interface board fault — stuck keys or moisture. Causes, safe DIY checks, and the repair-vs-replace call.

KitchenAid dishwasher F3E1 is an OWI (optical water indicator) fault — usually a lens fogged by hard-water scale. Cleaning steps and repair cost $100–$225.

KitchenAid dishwasher F5E1 is a door-switch fault — the board never sees the door confirmed shut. Causes, latch checks, and whether to repair.

KitchenAid dishwasher F5E2 means the door will not close and latch. Rack, latch, and spring checks — plus the quick repair-vs-replace verdict.

KitchenAid dishwasher F6E4 is a water flow-meter error — usually a turbine stuck with hard-water scale. Causes, checks, and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid dishwasher F7E1 is a wash-motor fault — often a jammed impeller or bad capacitor. Diagnosis, DIY sump check, and repair-vs-replace.

KitchenAid dishwasher F8E1 means a slow water fill — often a half-closed supply valve or a scaled inlet screen. Checks and the repair verdict.

Cleaning the filter is the first move and often the last. What decides everything after it is the noise during the drain phase: a hum with no water and complete silence are two different parts and two very different bills.

KitchenAid dishwasher F9E1 means drain time exceeded — often a disposal knockout plug left in. Installation checks and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F1E0 is an EEPROM read/write failure on the control board — often power-surge damage. Why it needs a board, and the repair verdict.

KitchenAid oven F2E0 is a shorted touchpad — a stuck membrane key the board reads as a phantom press, often after self-clean. Fixes and cost $150–$350.