How to Replace Whirlpool Top-Load Washer Splutch

The splutch is a clever single part that does two jobs: it engages the agitator during the wash stroke and the basket during spin, shifting between them as the motor changes direction. Its plastic cam ring and clutch teeth take that abuse every cycle, and when they round off, the drive can no longer grab one mode or the other. That is why the tell-tale symptom is always half a wash — one motion works and the other does not.

That single-part design also makes the diagnosis reassuring: because the splutch is the only component that switches between wash and spin, a clean split symptom points almost straight at it. A machine that neither agitates nor spins, by contrast, is usually a power, lid-switch, or motor problem, and one that fills poorly or will not drain is a different fault entirely. So the first question to settle is which single motion is missing — that answer is what tells you the splutch, and not the transmission or the drive motor, is the part to buy.

Tools and parts#

Have a putty knife, a Phillips #2 screwdriver, a socket set, and a spanner wrench for the tub nut. For the part, order the splutch and cam kit for your model, which varies by machine.

Replace the splutch#

1. Diagnose the problem. Confirm the split symptom — agitate-no-spin or spin-no-agitate — and rule out a broken lid switch or a drain fault, since a machine that will not spin can also be a lid or drain issue that logs an F5, F7, or F8 rather than a worn splutch.
2. Prepare and access the machine. Unplug the washer, shut the water, and open the cabinet; you will reach the drive under the tub, so have towels down for residual water.
3. Identify the target component. Locate the splutch on the drive shaft below the basket and confirm its cam and clutch teeth are worn or rounded rather than a neighboring part.
4. Remove the faulty component. Take the agitator and basket out to reach the splutch — the spanner wrench frees the tub nut — then slide the worn splutch and cam ring off the shaft.
5. Install the replacement. Fit the new splutch and cam kit in the same orientation, making sure the cam indexes correctly so the drive shifts cleanly between wash and spin.
6. Verify installation before closing. Turn the drive by hand to feel both modes engage, and check that the basket locks for spin and releases for agitate as it should.
7. Reassemble and full test. Rebuild the basket, agitator, and cabinet, restore power and water, and run a full cycle, confirming the machine now both agitates and spins and clears any stored E1 or E2. Let the spin ramp all the way up rather than judging it on a quick pulse, since a marginal drive can grab at low speed and only slip once the wet load is flung outward.

When to call a pro#

If a new splutch does not restore both motions, the transmission, the shift actuator, or the drive motor may be at fault, and those are deeper repairs worth pricing against the machine. A basket that still will not lock for spin after the splutch is replaced also points at the transmission.

Need professional help?#

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