Frigidaire Range: Replacing Oven Selector Switch

Bottom line: When one oven mode on a Frigidaire range dies while the others still work — Bake out but Broil fine, say — the selector switch contacts for that mode have burned out. Replacing it is an intermediate 40-minute job whose whole difficulty is labeling the wires correctly.

Disconnect the range from power at the breaker (240V circuits can be lethal). Verify no voltage with multimeter before touching any wiring. Multiple wires carry high voltage to this switch.

Tools and parts#

Step by step#

1. Access the control panel#

The switch sits behind the backguard on freestanding models or behind the front panel on slide-ins. Remove the two to four Phillips screws along the top or bottom edge and either lift the panel off or tilt it forward.

2. Label every wire#

The switch has six to ten terminals with different colored wires, each feeding a specific element or circuit. Before disconnecting anything, tape and label each wire with its terminal designation from the markings on the switch body, and take several photos. This is the single most important step in the job — an unlabeled harness is nearly impossible to reconstruct correctly, and a wrong terminal can back-feed L1 to an element that should be off.

3. Remove the old switch#

Pull the control knob straight off the shaft, remove the two mounting screws, and with the switch loose, disconnect all labeled wires by pulling spade connectors off terminals with needle-nose pliers. Lift the switch out.

4. Verify the replacement matches#

Compare the new switch to the old for the same terminal count, layout, shaft style (D-shaft or round-with-flat), and mounting pattern. Frigidaire switches often share a maker with Electrolux equivalents, so a slightly different part number can still be identical in spec.

5. Install the new switch#

Mount it with the original screws and reconnect each wire to its labeled terminal, pushing every connector fully home. Double-check every connection against your photos and labels, because a misconnected wire can power the wrong element or short between elements.

6. Test every mode#

Restore power and run each mode: Bake heats the bottom element, Broil the top, Convection runs the fan with the rear element on Gallery models, and Self-Clean if equipped, checking the oven light where appropriate. If any mode fails, cut power and recheck that mode's terminals.

7. Recheck the calibration#

After the swap, confirm the calibration has not drifted. Run Bake at 350°F for 20 minutes with a standalone thermometer and adjust if needed — hold Bake for 5 seconds on electronic models, or turn the calibration screw on a mechanical knob.

If a mode still won't work#

• Only Broil works: the Bake contacts burned out — they fail first because the bake element draws the most current (2,000-3,000 watts); replace the whole switch, since contacts are not serviceable.
• F10 after the swap: contact bleed-through running two elements at once can overshoot and trip the F10 runaway-temperature code — recheck for a shorted terminal.
• Broil comes on during Bake: a wire is on the wrong terminal; recheck against your labels.
• Oven light stays on constantly: the same contact bleed-through that trips F10 can also keep the light circuit energized — inspect the switch for a fused contact.

When to call a pro#

High-voltage wiring at this switch is unforgiving, so if the labeling got scrambled, get a technician. See our stove repair cost guide or book a same-day repair.