Frigidaire Range: Replace the Infinite Switch
When a Frigidaire cooktop burner stays full-blast on any knob setting, or refuses to heat at all, the infinite switch behind that knob has failed. Swapping it is an intermediate job of about 30-45 minutes, and the only trick is getting the wires back exactly where they came from.
The infinite switch is not a simple on-off part — it cycles the burner on and off to hold your chosen heat level, using an internal bimetal that opens and closes. When its contacts weld shut the burner runs wide open; when they burn open the burner goes dead. Both failures trace to the same switch, and both are common because that little contact carries the burner's full current every time you cook.
It helps to know what "infinite" actually means here: the switch does not throttle voltage like a dimmer, it rapidly cycles the full element on and off, and the fraction of time it stays on sets the heat you feel. That is why a healthy switch clicks softly as a burner holds temperature, and why a welded-closed switch leaves the element blazing with no clicking at all. Listening for that steady cycling is a quick field check before you ever pull the control panel.
Tools and parts#
Gather a Phillips #2 screwdriver, a 1/4" nut driver, needle-nose pliers, a multimeter, masking tape and a marker for labeling, and a flashlight. For parts, buy an infinite switch that matches your burner's amperage rating — Frigidaire commonly uses 316436001 for a standard burner and 316238201 for a dual-circuit or Quick Boil element, so confirm which your range has.
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Combustion analyzer ($300), igniter tester ($120), temperature calibrator ($150), and gas pressure manometer. Our technician arrives with $3,000+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
Safety — high current behind the panel#
Turn off the circuit breaker for the range (240V double-pole breaker). Verify power is off before touching any wiring. The infinite switch terminals carry 240V during operation. Label all wires before disconnecting — wrong reconnection can damage the element or create a short circuit.
The procedure#
- Kill power and open the control panel. Trip the range's double-pole breaker, then remove the rear control-panel cover or tilt the panel forward to reach the back of the knobs.
- Identify the failed switch. Match the misbehaving knob to its switch. Its terminals are usually labeled — the line side at L1 and L2, the load side at H1 and H2 feeding the element.
- Label and photograph every wire. Tag each wire to its terminal and take a clear photo. This is the step that makes or breaks the job; the L1/L2/H1/H2 layout is easy to cross under a rushed reassembly.
- Disconnect the wires. Slip each spade connector off with the pliers, working one at a time so nothing gets mixed up.
- Remove the old switch. Release its mounting screws or tabs from the panel and lift it out.
- Install the new switch. Seat the matching-amperage replacement, then transfer each wire to the same L1, L2, H1, and H2 position your photo shows.
- Test before full reassembly. Restore power and check that the burner now ramps from low to high with the knob and cycles instead of blasting; then shut power off again and close the panel.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Gas ovens involve live gas lines — a loose connection creates explosion and carbon monoxide risk. Electric ovens run on 240V circuits. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
Licensed & Insured · 90-Day Warranty · Same-Day Service
When to call a pro#
If a new switch does not fix a burner stuck on high, inspect the receptacle and element for a melted terminal that welds the circuit closed. Any sign of arcing or charred wiring at the block is a job for a technician, since a compromised 240V connection can restart a fire.
Appliance Repair Technician · 8 years experience
Experienced technician with 8 years specializing in dishwasher repairs and European appliance brands including Bosch and Thermador.
