How to Replace Maytag Range Electric Coil Burner

Plug-in, not hardwired#

Maytag coil elements use the standard Whirlpool Corporation plug-in design: two flat prongs push into a receptacle (terminal block) like a cord into an outlet. That is why there is no wiring and no electrician involved — you pull the old coil and push in the new one.

Sizing and safety#

• Tools: none required (a multimeter helps confirm the diagnosis)
• Part: a coil element that matches your burner — 6-inch small burners are about 1,500W, 8-inch large burners about 2,100-2,600W; match the wattage to your model
• Time: 5-10 minutes per element · Difficulty: beginner
• Safety: turn the burner off and let it cool about 10 minutes. The coil unplugs live, but for full peace of mind you can switch off the breaker.

Step-by-step#

1. Confirm it failed and check the size#

A dead element does not glow; a partly broken one glows in sections; a failing one blisters or makes one scorching hot spot. To be sure, unplug the coil and meter across its two prongs: a good 8-inch element reads about 25-45 ohms and a 6-inch about 35-60 ohms. Infinite means open (replace); under 15 ohms means an internal short that overloads the receptacle (replace at once).

2. Let it cool#

Give a recently used burner at least ten minutes. Hold a hand a couple of inches over the coil — any warmth, wait longer. Maytag's heavier elements hold heat a bit longer than budget ones.

3. Lift the element and pull the drip pan#

Raise the coil at its outer edge for clearance and lift the drip pan out of the opening so you can see the receptacle at the rear.

4. Unplug the old element#

Grip the coil near its prong end and pull straight out with even pressure — no bending or twisting. Maytag's heavier-gauge prongs can feel a touch tight; firm, straight force is right. The element comes free in one piece.

5. Inspect the receptacle#

Look at the receptacle contacts. Burn marks, pitting, melting, or arced metal mean the receptacle should be replaced too; clean, shiny contacts are fine to reuse. Worn element prongs tend to damage a receptacle over time, so check both.

6. Install the new element#

Line up the two flat prongs with the receptacle slots and push in firmly and evenly until they bottom out and the coil sits level in the opening. If it tilts, the prongs are not fully in — pull back and reseat. For a Power Burner position, fit the correct high-wattage coil (2,400-2,600W), not a standard one.

7. Refit the drip pan and test#

Set the drip pan back with its notch toward the rear, then turn the burner to high. The coil should glow uniform red-orange within about 15-30 seconds — no dark patches, no bright hot spot, no sparking at the receptacle. Drop to low and confirm the glow eases evenly. No break-in is needed.

Troubleshooting#

• New coil does not heat: test the receptacle by plugging a known-good element into it — that isolates element versus receptacle or switch.
• Uneven glow on a brand-new coil: likely a defective element — exchange it.
• Sits crooked: prongs not fully seated, or the drip pan is not settled in its recess.
• Sparking at the prongs: worn receptacle contacts — replace the receptacle before the new element erodes too.
• Glows but weak heat: wrong wattage — a 1,500W (6-inch) coil in an 8-inch spot underperforms.

When to call a professional#

Call a tech if the receptacle is damaged and you would rather not verify 240V wiring yourself, if several burners died at once (a switch, wiring, or breaker issue), if you see arcing or flame at the receptacle, or if you are unsure whether your range is plug-in or hardwired.