What you came for
In plain terms, F4 E4 means one side of the incoming supply was not there when the heater was called for. Nothing inside the machine needs repairing in the common case; the problem is upstream of it. One half of a double breaker tripped, so the motor runs and the heater has no supply explains more of these than any component failure does.
This code, as the manufacturer publishes it
Reference| Code | Documented meaning |
|---|---|
| F4 E4 | An F4 E4 (Low or No Line Voltage) Diagnostic code indicates that there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. |
What you actually see and hear
- The machine runs a full cycle and never gets warm — No heat at all rather than not enough heat.
- Other things on the same circuit misbehave too — A shared supply fault rarely affects only the dryer.
- NEAR MISS - the machine is completely dead — Nothing at all is both legs gone or a cord fault, which is checked the same way but reads differently.
Causes, and why they rank that way
- Half of the double breaker tripped or worn — Ranked first because it is the whole fault in most cases: a double breaker can lose one side while the other still holds, and the handle does not always look tripped.
- A loose connection at the outlet, the plug or the terminal block — Second: a terminal that has worked loose carries current until it is asked for real, which is what the heater does.
Where to start, and what follows
- Switch the breaker fully off and back on, both halves together — Free, and it resets a half-tripped double breaker that does not look tripped.
- Check whether anything else on that circuit is affected — Narrows it to the circuit rather than the appliance.
The owner-safe sequence
- Cycle the breaker fully off, then on — Push it firmly to the off position first: a half-tripped double breaker often needs the full travel to reset.
About 5 min
- Run a heated cycle and feel the drum after a few minutes — Warm means the supply was the fault and the repair is finished.
About 15 min
- STOP HERE if the terminal block or the panel has to be opened — Supply work is for an electrician.
Safety first, and it is not optional
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Leave every switch and interlock wired as the manufacturer fitted it: they are what stops the appliance running in a state it should not. If the plug, the cord or the outlet is discoloured or hot, stop there and have the supply looked at before the appliance.
When to stop and call someone
Call an electrician rather than an appliance technician when the breaker will not hold or the outlet is discoloured; call an appliance technician if the supply is sound and the machine still reports the same fault. There is one case that does not wait for any of that. Stop using the outlet and call if the plug is hot, the face is browned, or you smell hot plastic at the wall. A loose high-current connection is a fire risk, not an inconvenience.
Codes next to this one
How far this page applies
This page is the appliance-class reading of one code, for the electric model lines that watch their own incoming supply. It stops short of model-specific figures on purpose: those differ by family, and a plausible-looking wrong number is worse than none. If your model has a page of its own it is the more specific answer and is linked from the code index below; use this page as the general orientation.
The code index and nearby reading
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
