Replace Whirlpool or Maytag Dryer Heating Element

Whirlpool and Maytag dryers share one platform, so the element, thermal fuse, and thermostats sit in the same places and the belt routing is identical. The two skills that make any of these repairs go smoothly are the disassembly sequence and getting the belt path right on the way back.

Tools & parts#

Safety first#

Unplug the dryer completely. For gas dryers, shut off the gas supply valve at the wall connection. Allow 30 minutes cool-down if the dryer was recently running.

Step-by-step#

Step 1: Diagnose before disassembly#

On electronic models, read the F#E# codes: F1 E1 (control-board EEPROM), F2 E1 (stuck keypad button), F3 E1 (exhaust thermistor), F4 E1 (airflow restriction), and AF (an airflow warning — clean the vent now). On dial models, symptoms guide you: no heat means the thermal fuse or element, no tumble means the belt or motor, and long cycles mean the sensor or a clogged vent.

Step 2: Open the dryer#

Release the top panel with a putty knife at the front corners (about 2 inches in) or by removing 2 rear screws and sliding it back. Take off the front panel — 2 screws up top, disconnect the door-switch harness, then 2 screws or clips at the bottom. To reach the drum, push the idler pulley toward the motor to slip the belt off the motor shaft and lift the drum out. For the element and thermal parts, remove the 6-8 screws around the rear panel.

Step 3: Note the belt routing#

The flat multi-rib belt wraps the drum with its ribbed side against the drum, drops to the idler pulley, wraps it in a 180-degree turn, and continues to the motor shaft. The idler is spring-loaded, so on the way back you push it toward the motor with one hand while threading the belt onto the motor shaft with the other — the trickiest part of the job.

Step 4: Locate the target component#

Behind the rear panel, the heating element is inside a metal housing can on the back wall, the thermal fuse sits on the exhaust blower outlet, the thermal cutoff and high-limit thermostat are on the element housing, and the cycling thermostat is on the exhaust housing. Drum rollers, idler, motor, and belt are front-access after the drum is out.

Step 5: Replace the component#

Disconnect the push-on spade terminals by pulling straight, never twisting, and press the board connectors' locking tabs before pulling. Seat each new connection firmly — a loose spade connector heats up at the contact and can melt into a fresh failure.

Step 6: Reassemble and verify#

Refit the drum with the correct belt routing (ribbed side to the drum, tensioned by the idler) and rebuild the panels in reverse. Run a short timed-dry with a damp towel and confirm the drum spins smoothly, heat arrives within 1-2 minutes, there are no odd noises, and AccuDry ends the cycle when the towel is dry.

Whirlpool dryer notes#

When to call a pro#

Get help on gas dryers if the burner or gas valve is involved, if the dryer trips the breaker (a short), or if an EcoBoost heat-pump model needs heating-system service, which is a different design entirely.

For a repair-versus-replace budget, see our dryer repair cost guide.